Chapter 9: Was that Pamploma or Panplona? Pamplona?

To say yesterday was easy would be a lie. We got up in Zubiri, and while Becky felt good, I felt like every muscle on my body was brand new car leather. I felt every step. After about 4 kms in, I eventually got a little more broken in, but my hips and butt were on fire all day. Becky taught me how to use her trekking poles. Mine were accidentally donated to our Irish friends, whose journey ends in Pamplona and who we didn’t come across again, so because the entire day was essentially flat, Becky felt great but I needed something to lean into.

The walk itself was stunning. We are entering a more populated, less snowy Spain. There are small towns, or single homes, or ancient churches every few kilometers, and sometimes even closer than that.

Despite the amount of civilization in this part of Spain, we didn’t stop for coffee or snacks all day. We had Pamplona as our goal, which was about 22 km ahead, and neither of us felt like stopping too often. We did stop occasionally to pee or readjust. My clothes are starting to become baggier than I’d hoped much earlier than I’d hoped, so readjustment is necessary, and we are doing what we can to keep a close eye on my diabetes. It seems to be okay when I leave but by the time I get to where we’re going, I have to eat and tend to eat a LOT, so we are committed to taking more frequent apple and chocolate bar breaks, which is nice throughout the day.

The majority of the walking was flat and through either forests or plains. The views were beautiful everywhere. Every 2 kms or so was some kind of ancient church or mountain pass, and at one point we even walked through a series of horse farms that were just sort of…dropped into the path. The animals are clearly used to seeing people and will approach. I’m going to keep apples on me more often because I love feeding horses.

By around 2pm we began to feel the strain. Pamplona is a strange city in that it’s really a bunch of bedroom communities surrounding an old fortress, so just when we thought we’d walked far enough, it would tell us we were nowhere close. The joke between us became “Only 5 more kms”.

Eventually, we made it to the city. That’s a bit of a lie, actually. Becky made it. I limped.

We had about 40 feet before our hotel doors, and two Germans we had stayed in an Auberge with the previous night passed by us. Becky had to pee, badly and I was ready to pass out, but they began calling our names. Becky turned and looked, and then looked at me…and ran away. She yelled something about having to pee, and I stood there, trying to speak in broken German and English and explain that we were tired and she had to pee, but they both looked at me completely not understanding and a tad insulted. Truthfully, our interaction with them the night before had been a bit frustrating and so after a 22 km day, they were the last people we wanted to see, and so, summoning everything I had in me…I bravely… also ran away. Not even a joke. We both ran. We needed a shower worse than we needed social interaction. They were nice enough people, but there is a social obligation on the camino with people that sometimes you can’t make. Plus, their luggage was brought by cab, so they’d walked with nothing but their boots and sneakers all day. They had the energy…we didn’t.

Which showed when we got back to our hotel. Becky checked us in and I didn’t even take off my shoes…I passed out for about 30 minutes with my shoes on before Becky woke me up and encouraged me to get in the shower.

Best shower I’d ever taken.

We have a free day in Pamplona today…so keep your eyes peeled for LOTS of pictures. Love you all!