Chapter 11: Pamplona to Uterga – over Alto el Perdon

We are absolutely getting stronger. That’s a fact. Today we walked out of Pamplona and over El Predon mountain to a small town called Uterga. It was about 18KM with a 380 meter ascent and descent – and the distance isn’t half as bad at the elevation climbs. But still – we walked fast and made good time compared to previous days. We managed to get to our Albergue at an early 3 PM – just enough time for a glass of wine and a nap before dinner.

It was weird walking out of a city. That’s a first for us. Blake and I woke up early, had breakfast and rushed out of our beautiful hotel with a sad goodbye. We wanted to make it to the post office – or Correos – as soon as they opened at 8:00 am. We shipped some items back to Edmonton that we didn’t figure we’d need again (warm weather gear, among other items) and the lady at the post office – who spoke very little English – addressed the parcel to “RYAN S ADDRESS” – exactly as I had written on the post it note for her (Ryan’s address…..D’Oh!). So Ryan – if you get a parcel for Mr. Address – we promise it’s for you. Hah!

We met up with Gary and started walking out of the city. The Camino doesn’t take a roundabout or low traffic route through Pamplona – we walked directly through the Center of the whole city during morning rush hour. Little by little the city noise and scenery gave way to country side again.

Ahead of us stood a large mountain, dotted with windmills. Gary mentioned that we were walking right by those windmills. I thought he was messing with us. He wasn’t.

The climb was no joke. Pilgrims walked in a steady line up the mountain, zigzagging over the steep parts and slowly getting closer and closer to those windmills. The countryside was dotted with beautiful old manors and churches. It’s hard to believe that hundreds of years ago men built these buildings by hand, carrying stone and metal and whatever they needed up the hills by whatever means that had available. The endurance that would have taken is astounding.

At the top of Alto El Perdon – 770 Meters high – is a huge pilgrims monument devoted to the Camino. it’s a series’s of pilgrim silhouette through the ages, cut from sheet metal and has the backdrop of all of Navarre Spain behind it. It’s a very iconic part of the Camino Frances, and Blake and I were absolutely floored to make it to the top of the mountain to finally view it ourselves. It was so windy and cold, but we milled around up there for at least 20 minutes, taking in the view and enjoying the victory.

The descent was steep and windy. Lots of rocks and jagged terrain – would we expect anything else. We walked slow, and tried to stop once in a while to look up and enjoy the view. Wheat crops are still very fresh and only a few inches high. When the wind blows, the large meadows and fields waved like water. It was beautiful …. When we could look up from our feet.

Eventually we arrived at our Albergue for the evening. Bunk style – once again – but we’re not complaining. We did our laundry outside in the wash basins and hang to dry in the court yard. Our underwear, socks, bras, etc – hanging in the open with everyone else’s unmentionables…. Seems kinda like the norm here. The sun was strong so most of it dried quickly … while we drank next to palm trees on the patio (yeah…. Not to shabby).

Dinner was communal style – once again. We had a three course Spanish meal prepared by our hospitalario, and enjoyed the company of Gary, a lovely German lady and a Brit couple.

Blake and I are loving all the views and comments on our little blog. Thanks so much for reading and staying in touch, even if we don’t reply right away we love knowing that people from home are enjoying. Will update again soon. All our love – B&B