Chapter 25: Leon to Hospital de Orbigo

We began our walk out of Leon with good feet and high hopes. The day was gorgeous, we had slept in a little bit, and our packs were refilled with medical supplies, fresh apples and 2 cans of Coke for the “just in case” scenarios. Leon was a lot of fun minus…ya know…my hotel illness (Black Crowes reference for the ones who know).

We had planned our 25 km day out and as we walked out of the city, there was lots to see, even if it was a bit crowded with other pilgrims doing the same. This year is supposed to be a record setting year for pilgrims, and currently we are 7 days ahead of an onslaught that threatens our ability to find albergues night after night, so I am constantly having to drag Becky to keep pace.

We had an option of traveling via an alternate route. In the beginning of the Camino, alternate routes were kind of a novelty, something to do if you wanted a slightly longer day, or perhaps a detour to see some special church or sight, but now, they’re a hazard to be avoided, some adding 10 or 15 kms to an already 25 km day. If you make a left when you should have made a right, you can walk for miles into the countryside and not realize it.

Thankfully we haven’t done that yet. There are a litany of apps that guide you, and Becky chose hers based on what Gary has, which is an app called “Wise Pilgrim”. Gary swore by it, and because we all huddled around his phone for 8 days staring at it, Becky and I got used to the format and now it’s indispensable. It lists Albergues, allows you to post reviews and warnings for other pilgrims, and gives pragmatic advice for which towns to visit and avoid.

As the day wore on, we hit around 10 kms and Becky noticed a familiar soreness in her foot. We stopped at the single most rank smelling stop, and she rebandaged and strode on, stopping at the 3rd gas station we’ve seen in this country for a pee break before wandering into the vast farmland of Central Northern Spain. The farmlands here are a lot like Alberta, vast and flat, and dotted with cows.

When we arrived in Hospital de Orbigo, it was pretty quiet. I was beyond sweaty and when we finally got to our Auberge, which was absolutely lovely (with a really nice guitar), we showered, grabbed a bite in a place called the Bar Los Angeles, and headed right to bed. Admittedly, it was a wonderful night.

Our food was the most American style we’d had in some time, which was VERY welcomed. I got stewed beef and Becky got a salad. Incredible quality from a little spot in the middle of a tiny town.

This place also had probably $10,000 worth of every country’s currency on the walls. Neat spot. We ate ice cream on the way back to bed.

It didn’t take us both long to fall asleep. That part is nice about walking so much. Anyways, I’m off to bed again. Thanks for following and we will soon be reaching Astorga. Should be lots of pictures and lots of stories there!